Start with the surface, not the colour
It's natural to pick a colour first, but a decorator thinks the other way round. The first question is always: what am I painting? Plaster walls, ceilings, timber skirting, a metal radiator and a rendered outside wall all need something different, because they move, breathe, get knocked and get wet in different ways.
Once you know the surface, the type of paint more or less chooses itself. The colour comes last – and most good paints are available in thousands of shades anyway.
Emulsion: for walls and ceilings
Emulsion is the water-based paint used on most interior walls and ceilings in the UK. It's easy to apply, dries quickly, doesn't smell much and cleans off brushes with water. It comes in different sheens, from completely flat matt to silk.
Standard matt emulsion gives that soft, chalky look and is good at hiding small bumps in the plaster, but it can mark easily. If you've got children, pets or a busy hallway, a 'durable' or 'scrubbable' matt is worth the extra money. It looks almost the same but you can wipe it clean without leaving shiny patches.
Eggshell, satin and gloss: for woodwork and metal
Skirting boards, door frames, doors, window boards and radiators get knocked, scuffed and cleaned far more than walls. They need a harder, more protective paint, usually called a 'trim' paint. The three main options are eggshell (a low sheen), satin (a mid sheen) and gloss (high shine).
Gloss used to be the default on every bit of woodwork in Britain. These days many people prefer satin or eggshell because they look more modern and show fewer imperfections. There's no right answer – it's about the look you want and how much wear the surface gets.
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Masonry paint: for outside walls
Masonry paint is made for render, pebble-dash, painted brick and concrete outside. It's tougher than interior emulsion, resists rain and usually contains something to slow down mould and algae. It comes in smooth and textured versions.
Never use interior emulsion outside – it won't last a single winter. And be cautious about painting brick or stone that has never been painted; once it's done, it's hard to undo.
Primers, undercoats and specialist paints
Not every coat is about colour. Primers help paint stick to bare surfaces like new wood, metal or plaster. Undercoats build up a solid base under gloss and help hide the old colour. Stain blockers stop water marks, smoke stains and knots in wood bleeding through your new finish.
Then there are specialist products: floor paints, tile paints, anti-condensation paints for bathrooms, heat-resistant paints for radiators and breathable paints for old solid walls. You may never need them, but a decorator will know when they're worth it.
- Primer – for bare wood, metal, new plaster (thinned emulsion often acts as the primer on plaster)
- Undercoat – under gloss and satin on woodwork
- Stain block – over water marks, smoke and nicotine staining
- Knotting solution – on knots in new softwood so resin doesn't seep through
What a decorator will usually use
Most professional decorators buy trade paint from trade counters rather than the retail versions you see in supermarkets. Trade paints are often thicker, more opaque and better value per litre, and decorators know how each one behaves. If you've set your heart on a particular designer brand, say so when you ask for quotes – it can change the price.
Whatever paint is used, the quote should say what's going on each surface and how many coats. That's the easiest way to compare one decorator's price with another's.



